The Green Heart of Italy
A blog of our time spent in the beautiful Tuscan and Umbrian Countryside around Lake Trasimeno and within easy reach of wonderful places like Assisi, Cortona, Perugia, Castiglione del Lago, Citta della Pieve, Orvieto and so any more! Probably our last year in our much loved little house in Castel Rigone before our new villa is built near Lake Chusi and I give up teaching in the UK to embark on a life of Painting Holdays in Italy.
Saturday, 28 July 2012
Saturday, 9 June 2012
Our house in Castel Rigone
OUR CHURCH JUST 2 MINS UP THE ROAD. |
OUR BEDROOM |
BOTTOM BAR |
This is the lower bar which you see when you come up the hair-pins into the village of Castel Rigone. It's the one where all the young people gather at night and the men sit all day (or so it seems!) We are just a few doors away so get all the noise but somehow that doesn't matter! The young people here are so different from the UK kids. Always polite and friendly. In no way does one feel threatened. They always say Buon Giorno and smile.
ME ON THE STEPS OF OUR HOUSE |
OUR KITCHEN |
the top bar in the village |
Friday, 2 September 2011
Tips for motorists in Italy
When driving in Italy - Consider these rules:
It is an offence to put up one’s finger at another driver but you can:
- Drive in the boot of the car in front
- Wave your arms aggressively at the car in front – yes, BOTH arms – one doesn’t need to keep hold of the steering wheel when on Italian roads!
- Flash your headlights constantly at the driver in front – wash frequently to ensure brightest beams.
- Blow your horn- this needs to be done in a certain manner – little beeps are not acceptable – place the palm of your hand on the horn and ensure it remains there until either the driver of the car in front does one of the following:
a) pulls over (and possibly disappears over a ravine) ....or
b) has a heart attack – then you can overtake waving aggressively and shouting abuse...or
c) puts a finger up at you in which case you are at liberty to overtake – (wait until a vehicle is coming in the other direction) – then accuse him of committing offence and phone the police.
- Overtake on a blind bend.
- On the autostrada it is important to stay in the outside lane until the last minute before your exit and then cut across both lanes and take the exit. You will know if you have executed this appropriately by the screeching of brakes and possible pile-up of cars.
- Do use your mobile phone at all times whilst driving. This is particularly important when approaching hair-pin bends and overtaking. To obtain an advanced certificate of driving you can also attempt to make a call whilst keeping your free hand on the horn.
- Remember that your passengers are more important than the other drivers on the road. They must have your undivided attention at all times. It is unacceptable not to look at them, even if they are in the rear seat.
- Pedestrians should not be on the road. Roads are for vehicles. After all there would be pavements if people were meant to be walking at the side of the road. Therefore, on seeing a pedestrian act extremely surprised, continue at 150k and close your eyes.
- If you have a motorbike ensure that the exhaust makes the loudest possible noise and drive through villages between 11pm and 6am.
- When parking do not use car-parks or other legally designated places. Find a good tight bend in the road and then deposit your car keeping the keys in the ignition with engine running. If you can’t find a suitable bend then double park so that you are blocking other vehicles.
- Your vehicle should also be used to keep residents alert at night. First find a row of houses next to the road in a quiet village. Then park outside but leave your lights and radio on. It is preferable to leave all car windows open so the maximum amount of music is emitted. You can then add to the volume by standing adjacent to your car and holding a conversation in the loudest voice possible, with your friends in the bar 100 yards up the road.
Wednesday, 31 August 2011
Spello and Cappuccino
Tuesday 30th August.
SPELLO
SPELLO
Spent afternoon in Spello. A really beautiful town – just made for artists! Every corner reveals another possible canvas. A definite place to consider when I start my ‘Painting Holidays’!
As usual on top of a hill. In fact it is situated on the slopes of Monte Subasio. It was the ancient Hispellum of the Romans and a town which grew to be tremendously important. As usual a great climb up into town. There is parking at the top but would you really want to execute the uphill climb at the end of your visit? In 30C? After a glass of vino? With sore feet? No, I thought not!
One of many beautiful little streets |
There is a fort and a couple of pretty churches. Its interesting to see that there is a Via Cappuccini, a Cappuccini church and a Piazza Cappuccini.
Cappuccini gate |
There also used to be a Cappuccini monastery set near to the Cappuccini gate. Why interesting? Well, the drink cappuccino gets its name from the colour of the habits worn by the Cappuccini monks. So, there you are!
Bar Bondi garden terrace |
Found beautiful bar for a gelato. Not a great choice of ice-cream for Italy but excellent quality and friendly service. 2 euro for a small coppa or cone. The best thing about this bar is the beautiful garden at the rear where one can sit and relax overlooking an amazing view. Drinks and food are a bit more pricey compared with the smaller bars so stick to the ice-creams!
Bar Bondi |
Every where very quiet but met this awful American who was carrying a huge antique mirror on his back and he was like, ‘Oh, I must stop shopping – I have two extra suitcases full already! On my last trip to Italy I came with five cases and took back eight! Oh, the company are missing me ! They have given me a brand new lap-top to keep in touch!’ Oh, I travel business class so it doesn’t matter how much extra I take’! Oh, my girlfriend will kill me! Hope she does! YUK! We didn’t invite him to have ice-cream with us!
Yet another lovely house! |
In the evening we had a lovely meal with friends in family run restaurant in Valiano. I had – wait for it – TRIPE! It was delicious – stewed with onions and tomatoes. Very different from the Lancashire tripe and onions! Mind you I always preferred the boiled cold tripe with lots of salt and pepper and vinegar!
Tuesday, 30 August 2011
Autumn Leaves
Monday
Pink trees! Yes, there really are pink tress and I have never seen them here before. The colours are amazing at the moment due to long periods of heat and drought. It looks like Autumn.
Pink trees! Yes, there really are pink tress and I have never seen them here before. The colours are amazing at the moment due to long periods of heat and drought. It looks like Autumn.
A quiet day. Walking in the morning. Castiglione in the afternoon where I met a friend, Jan at Bar Castello. This was followed by business trip to Perugia for a meeting with our Notary,
Finished the day with dinner at Battibecco - so lovely!
TODI
Sunday 28th August
Lovely temperature in Castel Rigone today – 33C instead of the 38C comparatively cool!
Caught up with the washing and had quiet morning enjoying the sun on the terrace – first time for a week it has been comfortable to sit here even at 10am in the morning! SO great just being able to hang towels and sheets out of the window! I wonder why? Maybe because it is almost an act of defiance - going against all the middle class social rules! Will make the most of it now because I wont be able to do it when we move into the villa at Cimbano!
The Hotel was very busy today. It was so difficult to Skype. The Italians have incredibly loud voices! Reception is so bad that I have to sit literately 6 ins away from the WiFi thingy in the, very tiny, reception. Guests were checking in and out constantly. Much better when it is just the Perugia football team staying - they just seem to sleep and eat!
view from Todi |
Went off to Todi at lunch. Do not be tempted to take the little roads! (Hubby's idea!) Took absolutely ages – (about 2 hours). The signposting was lousy! Really didnt feel like bothering by the time we got there. On the E45 it would only have been 50 mins!
Yes! You have to climb right up to that church! |
But one has to love Todi even with a numb bum! We parked just outside the gates and walked ............ UP!- You should have guessed this by now! Why do all these towns entail a climb the equivalent of five of Lincoln ’s ‘Steep Hill’? There is a little cable car which goes up and down between a car park and the summit but you do get more of the atmosphere when you walk (actually, the truth is we didn't know this till we got to the top because we didn't read the guide book!)
It’s a very pretty town. Very tranquil and set amongst exquisite countryside. Lots of lovely churches and pretty houses set within medieval walls.
Their ‘Festa’ started last night so the Piazza del Popolo was covered in scaffolding ready for the lighting.
It's a shame we only had time to browse around the upper town. Next time we will start off down below and meander along the city walls so we can see the remains of the amphitheatre and a round church – Santa Maria della Consolazione.
It's also a good idea to start off early in the day so you can in at a couple of the beautiful little villages on the way – Collazzone and Fratta Todina.
The best bar for gelato AND comfort can be found in Piazza Garibaldi – the outside is set under magnificent arches and you can lounge on lovely sofas whilst enjoying your ice-cream. Inside is equally attractive and the people are very attentive and friendly.
Toilets - about 4 out of 10 today! They are outside through the arches and can be entered from the back street. This means that they are also used generally and not just by the bar customers. Have seen worse though!
From about 6.30pm there is a free little buffet of ‘tastes’ to enjoy with a vino or aperitvi. These consist of tiny sandwiches, pieces of pizza, foccacio, nuts etc.
Toilets - about 4 out of 10 today! They are outside through the arches and can be entered from the back street. This means that they are also used generally and not just by the bar customers. Have seen worse though!
nibbles |
Very reasonable prices – one euro 50 for small gelato.
Three euro 40 for a coffee and a San Bitter ( similar to a Campari n soda)
Got home reasonably early so had dinner on our little terrace. Turkey escalope with tomatoes and a green rocket salad plus lots of pane e olio n probably too much vino rosso! Mike went inside at 9.30pm cause he said he was chilly – it was still 26C! Hate to think what we are going to feel like when we get back to the UK !
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