St. Francis

Sunday

5.50am

Thank goodness it’s time to get up!  It has been 31C upstairs all night and no breeze!

Have just been watching a stunning sunrise over the hills again whilst enjoying a much needed doppio expresso. 

Going to have quick shower, grab a croissant and then do my 10k hike to Preggio.  Then I will be ready for a quiet afternoon – Jan coming up and we are going out for lunch then will come back here and have a quiet afternoon chatting and wandering around the village.

11am 

Back from trek – was hard today – prob cause I didn’t get much sleep n also have got a blister!

Deviated from normal route and went off to find Il Letto di San Francesco  - the video the other day wasn’t mine – I cheated there but today the photos are authentic!  As usual with this type of place there isn’t much to see – just a little shrine but I have rather a soft spot for St. Francis!

Not unlike the colour of my MR2 - quite cute!

5pm
Had lovely afternoon catching up since we last met up.  had lunch at restaurant in San Feliciano overlooking lake but couldn't manage more than a (still very large) plate of prosciutto crudo and melon.  But, how some people can eat!  The Italian family on the next table polished off huge platters of seafood, mussels and salmon followed by equally large portions of pasta and then lobster.  They also managed to eat a desert!

The thermometer in the entrance of bar was registering 41C  at 2pm!
What bliss on arriving back at Castel Rigone to find a wonderful breeze!  the first all week!

Molto Caldo!

Saturday

6.15am

Gave the guy with the witches broom quite a shock just now – don’t think he expected someone hanging out of a third storey window just above him! It’s so hot that I thought I would close the shutters since I’m going to be out all day.  Hopefully then I will have a cooler night.  The gutter above the bedroom ones seems to have dropped so had to just close internal ones.

Sunrise from kitchen and bathroom and bedroom!

8.50am

30C - has been this temperature all night in the house too!  Not the best conditions for sleeping.

Waiting for mini-bus – actually two other ladies joining me for the ride today!  Have taken a few close-ups of our church while I’m waiting.  Should really do a painting of it.

  It’s an incredible church to have in such a small village and the best example of this kind of architecture in Italy it appears! It does have quite a history and has played a major part in making the village what it is today.

Legend has it that in 1490 a young girl, while filling her pitcher of water at the well, saw a beautiful lady in a nearby thicket.  The lady asked her to tell everyone that she wished them to build her a small chapel at that very spot.  This apparition occurred several times and when the gil eventually arrived back at the village with her pitcher of water upside down on her head she was eventually believed and the villagers proclaimed a miracle.  When they started to clear the thicket they found a small shrine with a picture of Our Lady feeding the infant Christ.  Then other miracles happened and soon the news of all these happenings reached Perugia and from there, Rome and a small chapel was erected.   But in 1494 a Papal Bill was issued ordering a fitter temple to be built.  Hence the present church.  Although maybe a legend, something major must have happened to come to the notice of Perugia and Rome.    Personally, although I love the external features, the inside does leave me a little cold!  

10.15pm

 Caught bus to Passignano and had breakfast in or favourite bar and a wander along the front.  The town was very alive today as it was preparing for ‘A night under the stars’ - music, art,  theatre and food in all areas of the town. 

Bus had to stop on the way down the hill for about twenty riders on horse-back –all wearing cowboy hats!

Met a couple of friends and had a wander around the market then spent the afternoon in their house in a little village near Montepulciano.  VERY hot  -even in the shade it was 36C.

Ate in the restaurant of ‘La Cima’ which is in Gosperini  - a tiny place on top of yet another hill! Lovely drive up and great view but be warned!  You have twenty minutes of hair-pins on the way down!  OK in the day but not too good when you’re tired! Very tasteful  restaurant and hotel but we were the only people dining there!  Had spaghetti with fresh seafood which was excellent – a very large portion.  We also had hot French bread which was very welcome and very unusual here!  Could do with some for breakfast!  

Letto di San Francesco

This is on the way to Preggio - the bed of St Francis

Perugia

Inside Etruscan city

Perugia

We always drive into Perugia.  It takes 45 mins to get in and 20 mins to get out!  In other words we get lost going in, even after 30 years!  As with all big cities there are lots of different exits of the autostrada, Cavallo,  Madonna alta etc.  we need to take different exits depending on the reason for the visit and so forget which one is which!  To confuse us further they seem to change the one-way system from year to year and also where one can park!  The answer is, DON’T drive in – take the bus or the train!  it’s actually much more fun arriving at the train or bus station because then one rides on the funivia – a system of escalators – through the bowels of the earth into the ancient Etruscan city which is fascinating!

Entrance to the Etruscan city and the escalators

I love Perugia.  It is so alive and ‘21^st century’  whilst nurturing so much history and culture.  It sits on top of a hill, 500 metres high with extensions which actually for the shape of a star and the views are breath-taking.  

It deserves a few days to explore as there are so many interiors and exteriors to view in addition to a lovely walk around the walls.  Beware though!  Don’t expect the warmth and service in the bars or shops that one usually receives in the smaller towns and villages!  Also, you will be charged double for sitting down with a drink and coffee in the main street pavement cafes could cost you 3 euros instead of one! 

Deruta potter on the steps near the fountain - very good prices!

Perugia, as well as being the cultural and educational capital of Umbria, is also the home of the famous ‘Perugian’ chocolate and evidence of this can be seen in virtually every shop and bar window! 

There is also an annual chocolate festival when the town sinks in chocolate – chocolate to eat, chocolate to drink, chocolate to model, even an art gallery full of exhibits made from chocolate!

The Piazza Quattro Novembre – The Fontana Maggiore

This piazza was my Dad’s favourite and he left an unfinished painting of it.  The square is so very elegant and surrounded by beautiful buildings.  In the centre is this lovely 13C fountain.  The statues around it represent the signs of the zodiac and there are 24 saints and biblical figures.

Close to the fountain is the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, a vision in pink marble dating to the 15C. 

On the opposite side of the piazza stands the magnificent Palazzo dei Priori which houses the impressive Sala dei Notary, the library and national Gallery. 

There is also the Rocca Paolina in which there are re-enactments of the ‘Salt wars’ every weekend in July and August.  

Travel keeps you young!

Friday 19^th August.

6am

Umbrian amazing daily service!

Here he comes again with his broom!  Followed closely by guzzling monster!

Guzzling Monster

7.30am

Have given up on the bread!  Just having to resort to the unhealthy, but scrumptious alternative!  This is still warm, crisp and oozing with yummy custard!  It’s currently 30C in the sun!

12.15pm

Just back from my 10k hike!

Wasn’t as bad today – probably cause I knew where I was going and recognised the distance markers!  Have had the second shower of the day and now enjoying. a long, cool, ice-filled San Bitter.

Have come to the decision, after deliberating during the two hour walk, that travel does actually keep one young!  I don’t mean the kind of travel which involves frequent short business flights to different countries where all you see is the inside of a hotel or conference room.  These no doubt keep you very mentally alert but probably the stress, air-conditioning and lack of sleep far out-weigh the advantages! Nor do I include the typical package holiday spent mainly in hotel, bar and beach with lots of other tourists.

 The travel I’m thinking about is that which involves spending several months or years in different countries working or, if not actually in an occupation, then living in a community apart from one’s own nationality. 

Just think of the health advantages:

For a start, most of us would choose to have a second-home or spend time working in a country hotter and sunnier than our own – not difficult if you are British!  This means we have longer hours of sunlight which, in turn, stimulates our bodies to produce more of that feel-good hormone, serotonin or something like that!  
The more we feel good the more motivated we become and the more active.  Thus we are more energetic (hence the two 10 k hikes in three days!)  the more we exercise, the stronger our hearts, lungs and bones become etc, etc. 

Also living in a hot country reduces one’s appetite so not only do we remain lean and slender, we rely more on healthy foods like salads and fruit and fish with all their health benefits and don’t feel the need for meat or carbs. (except the cake for breakfast!)   Fish is brilliant for the brain and prolongs life so there we go again! 

Then, of course, in Europe there will be the wine – which could, in excess, have a negative effect!  But  I did read yesterday in, I think, the Daily Mail,  that a glass or two of red wine is thought to have health benefits too!

Of course more sun could mean skin-cancer but  when you are spending a long time in a hot place you avoid the sun which is why I choose to stay inside at this time of the day and get my work done or go on the computer or read in the pine-woods.   Everywhere will be deserted in the village now until 4.30pm!  If anyone does walk past our house it will be the odd mad tourist!

Travel also entails a great deal of brain work – planning, organising,  mastering a different language.  Even normal everyday tasks like shopping, going to the bank, communicating, driving, finding your way around (and simply keeping alive in some places I’ve been!),  require more concentration, which in turn makes our brains work harder and, so I believe, thus produce more brain cells.  Also, because you are meeting people from different cultures you acquire more knowledge and actually need to remember more, so there we go! 

This train of though came about when I thought about one of my friends, now living in Italy, who has travelled widely and worked in several different countries.  She, like so many people with similar life-styles looks and appears at least ten years younger!  Then I thought of all the other friends and relations I know with similar experiences.  They are all so vivacious, interesting, healthy and ALIVE! 

Well, that’s the end of my thought for the day.  Now I’m going to stimulate my brain even further by trying to find a way of downloading these damn videos onto my blog.  I refuse to be beaten!  I’ve also got to think of a different topic of conversation (in Italian) for when I go to the hotel! Good brain work!

.  

Fine friends, location, wine and food!

A quiet relaxing day which I needed after the exhaustion yesterday!  I went with my friend Daniella to Passignano for breakfast and then on to her house for a lovely lunch of home-grown salad, local wine and a great coffee.  Had great conversation comparing different cultures and think we came to the decision that the English and Germans actually understand each other and have much more in common than either of us do with the Italians - but we still love them and prefer to be here - in Italy!
 It's currently 44C in the car - 37C in the valley and a really chilly 35C here!  Not intending to do much - just read and maybe a bit of drawing.  (I did manage about an hour's school work this morning!) Then should be able to stay awake long enough to take in the concert tonight.

Haven't yet had  the opportunity to share our excitement over realising that the initial stage of building our villas is actually underway!  Not much to show - simply a gated cleared area and orange tape but it is a wonderful feeling after about 9 years of negotiations!

AT LAST!

Our Builder

The stable - behind Mike

Me behind the undergrowth!  No need to guess who took the photo!

The field adjacent to land - I just LOVE fields of sunflowers!

This year's festa dei Barbari in Castel Rigone