Better than the Gym!

Wednesday

Bottom bar where we tend to park the car - so all our comings and goings can be watched by the men who seem to spend the whole day there!

 7.30am

Love this time of day when the village is just waking up.  The guy with the witches broom has just gone through sweeping so expecting a roaring, spitting monster to arrive any minute to gobble up all the dirt (not that there can possibly be that much in three days!)  Wish our streets were kept so clean in the UK!

 It’s 25C in the house and  32C on the terrace.  Guess it’s going to be a hot one again!  Supposed to be 38C by Friday!

Chopped my fringe with the kitchen scissors – forgot to bring hair ones – but seems fine!

Didn’t get to the concert last night – was in bed at 9.30pm cuddled up with my Kindle - think the 200 steps and two hour walk plus climb equivalent to Steep-hill finished me off!  The Kindle is a god-send!  I’ve already got through 3 books and there is no way I could have brought sufficient for the five weeks with my luggage allowance.  Just finished ‘The Lovely Bones’ for the second time.   I was curious after watching the film – felt it didn’t really do the book justice although it was very good and definitely worth watching.   Having re-read the book I think I was right.  The film just didn’t evoke the horrendous variety and depth of emotions expressed by the book.  It still left me feeling haunted even on the second reading and with feelings which were difficult to shake off. 

Going to walk down to the swimming pool between here and Preggio this morning – its all main road so should be OK. Was told off by hubby last night for wandering alone down deserted lanes – but really like these green walks! It’s always been so safe here but guess one has to be cautious – shame!     

Then off to friends at 1pm for lunch.

12 0’clock

Just returned and had a shower.  Amazing how near the swimming pool seemed by car!  Took me 50 minutes to get there and that was in marathon mode so guess it was just nearly 4 miles.  Not too lonely a walk – was a car going past about every minute and think I was in more danger of being run over than molested!

By this stage of the walk I also felt in need of al lie down in a letto too!

It was a lovely walk - the last 20 minutes back to the village being the worst bit – a steep uphill climb.  But then I would have done 6k in the gym so not complaining and at least I got somewhere!  I wonder if they will eventually invent treadmills where you actually run through your own choice of  virtual landscapes?  Would relieve the boredom!

After 45 mins I was wondering if I was heading in the right direction so took a water break.

There are loads of signs along the road - warnings about snow, boulders falling, and speed restrictions which no one takes any notice of but there don't seem to be any signs telling one how far it is to anywhere?  Would have been a bit reassuring to see the kilometres decreasing!

 And the deer signs!  Everywhere!  But where are the deer?  In fact where are the wild boar ?  Lots on plates in the restaurants but in the five years since buying  this house we have never seen so much as a rabbit let alone a deer or a wild boar!  Even on the evenings when we drove deep into the woods with the girls and waited patiently we were disappointed!  

The swimming pool is set in a park in a pine-wood and is really lovely.  Beautifully done and very spacious.   

Park around the pool - actual area concealed from view

 Very convenient from here (by car!) so great for those without their own pool.  Across the road is a lovely bar and restaurant – it has a very prettily set out stepped garden planted with red geraniums – again set in a huge pine-wood so lovely and shaded. 

Lower bar 

 Opening hours were 10am till midnight but, as seems to be the case here, the owner only arrived five mins before 10 and then proceeded to clean all the gardens for the next half-hour with his little blower-machine covering me in dust in the process!  He was very nice though, especially when he learned I had walked from Castel Rigone!  It is a lovely place to have a drink in the evening and it would appear there is live music on tonight but don't really think I have the energy for another 8 mile hike!

Lake in view so only 20 minutes to go to home!

4pm

 Have just had wonderful lunch with our English friends in the village -  baked peppers and vegetables with anchovies complete with some actually edible and delicious bread, followed by  home grown figs in raspberry purée with cream - 

Mow escaping from the heat in my usual haunt – like one of the family now at the hotel!  Am getting my Wi-Fi free and enjoying a daily chat although seeing the same people on a daily basis means I can’t resort to the usual Italian basic introductory chat. Have exhausted, ‘Sono Inglese e ha una piccolo casa….. ho due figlie ……vado sempre in Italia….mi piace il teatro….. trenta anni fa stato qui con il mio papa ……. Sono maestra in scuola elementare …….etc, etc

  Yesterday was quite a challenge – no amount of Italian lessons seem to cover ‘I have lost the USB adaptor to connect my camera to the computer- has it been handed in?  Plus is it correct that the daily  bus from here to Perugia doesn't actually return?   Anyway, after lengthy description of colour, shape accompanied by lots of mime we eventually got there – then, as would happen, I found it at home! 

THE one bus to freedom!

12.15    Matedi

Just returned from Passignano.  Caught the twice a week bus from Castel Rigone – there is just one a day on a Tuesday and a Saturday during the summer.  It leaves from the piazza in front of the church at 8.50am and returns at 11.30am from outside the Mayfair bar in Passignano.

 It’s the first time I’ve caught the bus (mini-bus actually)  and I  was terrified of missing it on the return journey cause there’s no other form of transport unless one pays 30 euros for a 6 mile journey in a taxi!  The service is free and obviously put on as a stopgap during the summer when the schools are closed. I can see why there are only two a week – there was only one other passenger besides me! 

We do see an actual double-decker bus going through every day at 6.30am but never see it coming back! Have found out why today – it doesn’t come back! It’s a service from Magione to Perugia and I think you can get on here but once in Perugia again there is no way of getting back!

Today Passignano had returned to its tranquil normality after the Ferragosto weekend madness with the day-trippers having departed and locals back at work.  Stinking hot again (30C at mid-day) after the coolness (24C ) and slight dribble of rain yesterday but still managed the hundred steps up to the Rocca - twice (it wasn’t open the first time) and then the 93 steps up the spiral staircase to climb to the top  and a long stroll along the front -  so lots of exercise! 

Ferry in Passignano

Had a nice chat with the keeper of the castle who spoke good English but did allow me to use my Italian.  Put him down as a potential rescuer when waiting for the return bus just in case it didn’t come!  Think the guy in the handbag shop would have been quite happy to have taken on the job but with strings! 

There’s a big event on at Passignano on Saturday – La notte bianco sotto le stelle (The white night under the stars)  Starts late afternoon and there are musical and art events all over the town – bands, theatre, art displays, food, sport and another boat race I think.  Sounds really good and would love to go – can get there OK cause there is a bus on Saturday at 9am but no way to get back unless someone out there would enjoy coming with me!    

Piazza Agnostino where the the concert will take place

Tonight I think I will go to the concert in the village if I stay awake till the 9pm start!  There are lots of these during July and August.  Tonight it is the Orchestra da Camera del Trasimeno with a violoncello soloist.  Music by Britten and Haydn. It’s being held in the Piazza Agnostino again – the people who live there mustn’t get any sleep but they also enjoy free concerts

Assisi - great place for a wedding!

Didn’t get to Citta della Domenica yesterday afternoon cause Mike was busy finishing his plans for the villa – he’s designing a room in the roof now!  Probably wasn’t a good idea before the heat and hills of Assisi anyway!  He has promised we can go when he returns since I’m not able to get myself there this week although he probably wishes I could!

Health Warning!   Don’t read this blog if you don’t like lots of photos!  There are lots of them!  It's the sort of place where you just cant stop taking photos!  Will have to do another blog next time we go because I cant fit them al in!  I love Venice, Rome is just stupendous but Assisi is my very favourite place in Italy!

Lopsided view cause taken from car on one of the many hair-pins going up the hill

I just had to go to Assisi before I get marooned here next week – it’s been two weeks without a visit and that is very unusual as it’s normally one of the first places we go to!

Bride n Groom outside Santa Chiara

You can’t beat seeing a wedding to make a visit special!  I hope the wedding guests were being suitably entertained while this bride n groom were having their photo shoot!  We saw them in five different places over period of an hour and a half!

Photo shot

 Since the earthquake so much has been restored and sandblasted and generally polished to an ethereal pink heaven!  Even the little, winding backstreets are so clean and beautiful.  

The Rocca - quite a long walk but well worth the view at the  top!

We love walking away from the tourists into the hilly back streets and it’s a wonderful experience to climb up to the castle and marvel at the view. 

Basilca della San Francesco

My three most favourite Italian cathedrals are here – Basilica della San Francesco and Santa Chiara are in the upper city and Santa Maria degli Angeli sits at the bottom, just as you enter. 

Santa Maria degli Angeli

 I have an oil painting done on my first visit to Assisi at the grand old age of eighteen which is interesting because I painted the Basilica before the earthquake and the colours are so different from the present sandblasted version.  In our little house in Castel Rigone there is also a fresco of Santa Chiara.  Maybe next week I should paint the remaining one-Santa Maria degli Angeli-although I am running out of wall space!

Our favourite bar on the road into the centre - frequented by lots of locals so the food must be good!  We are going to eat there next week.  Lovely warm welcome from the proprietor yesterday who would't let us pay for the drinks. 

The risks you have to take to get a good photo!

I would advise an evening visit to Assisi the first time!  It is the hottest place on earth in the afternoon and one of the hilliest!  The sun just bounces back of the while and pink of the buildings and there is virtually no shade!

Street at dusk - this is the restaurant we often eat at but looks like it has changed hands.

Santa Chiara at dusk - this is the shot I used for the fresco in our house.  Assisi is just so beautiful  at this time of the day and the sunsets are amazing!  And do peep into the little shops and galleries - many of them have the most amazing vaulted ceilings.  

The main piazza - doesn't usually feature a Rolls!

The Rolls wasn't for me - but prefer my MR2 anyway!

Pedro the coke drinking parrot!

That was just the BEST anniversary ever!  A fantastic pizza in a restaurant I first visited with my parents 43 years ago in the company of a lovely Italian friend, Pedro the parrot and an adorable little dog!

I was so excited as we approached Citta della Domenica! Mike less so!  I can remember really enjoying the little train and  sharing the girl's excitement on exploring the different themed areas all those years ago.  Mike says he spent the days dreaming of the next bottle of water!

 Citta della Domenica for those who are not familiar is a huge wooded complex set on top of a hill just outside Perugia.  It was given to the people of Perugia by the Spagnoli family, for their enjoyment on a Sunday - hence the name - but it is open all week.    It consists of a zoo, restaurant and bars, huge indoor play areas - the little electric cars were great!  An extremely large outdoor themed park with a little train which takes you to the different areas and lovely walks and picnic areas.  It WAS hot!  We used to be there with our daughters in the heat of the afternoon and, in those days, there was no shade and we often used to walk around rather than wait for the train so it was quite exhausting.

Last night Ilana met us with Pedro perched on the car.  She works here a couple of days a week welcoming the families and taking photos of them with Pedro.  He never flies away and obeys every instruction - incredible!

It was so strange seeing the restaurant again, like losing 43 years.   I don't think we ever ate their as a family - but I came with my mother and father the first time we came to Italy in 1966.  It still looks the same!

I was not really looking forward to the pizzas because I generally do not like Italian pizzas but, boy, did I change my mind!  And just look at the size!  Brought half of it home for another meal!  And they only cost about 7 or 8 euros!

Pedro LOVES Coca Cola!  He also enjoys pizza! He's only allowed a few tasted though!  The two little girls on the next table thought Christmas had come watching his antics!

And we musn't forget the cutest little dog!

This evening, on the way to Assisi Ilana is going to get us into the park for a quick trip round on the train.  Can't wait!

Market Day at Castiglione del lago

Market Day at Castiglione Del Lago

It’s Wednesday and market day!  That is, not today but two days ago and there have been problems with the WI Fi since then so rather late with this blog!

It’s still necessary to visit Castiglione on market day, even after forty years!  It’s sort of a tradition although its not half as much fun now as it used to be when the girls were young.  Then we used to start off early from the camp at Lido Trasimeno to breakfast on custard doughnuts at the Extra Bar. The bar is on one of the most complicated road junctions in the town!  It is a great hour’s entertainment just sitting there and watching the manoeuvres of the various cars, scooters and vans!  Especially so since many of the drivers of the said vehicles often park and pop into the bar for a café and dolce with engines running and keys in the ignition not to mention radios blaring!  The bar is opposite Hotel Fazzuoli where we used to stay and were we had the most amazing evening meals before they closed the restaurant.  We used to enjoy the antics from there too!

  There would always be someone to chat to – maybe Alfredo, a local artist or the chap from the shop next to the bar where the girls used to buy their school diaries or sometimes it was a dancer from the International Folk Festival.  We all remember George! 

Then it was up into the market to browse around the stalls to find something to take back home.  The stalls seemed more interesting then. Guess everything was very new and fascinating. 

Many of the household goods were not available in the UK and we used to stock up on spaghetti tongs and olive oil dispensers, paper napkin holders and lovely salad bowls and brightly coloured bath towels at ridiculously cheap prices.  The kids were in their element because there were so many novelty items, wonderful bags and pens and watches and toys. 

Wedding Anniversary

It's our Wedding Anniversary - 39th I think!
Having a lovely day.  Rose early and went off to enjoy the fresher morning air strolling round little local village. it is their festa weekend and we were lucky to see the 'ragazzi' practising for a dance performance.  Took lovely little video but cant seem to upload it to this blog.  Shame.

  The village enjoys a strong traditions of local artists and there were lots of exhibitions in the process of being set up.  Had a Cafe Crema at the local bar - a kind of sweet concoction of coffee, ice-cream and ice which I always dilute with a glass of aqua naturale otherwise it is just too sweet for me and probably most English palettes!

We then went to stock up at the supermercato in Magione ready for my incarceration next week!  It say this because when Mike goes back to the UK on Monday I will be left without a car and the only way of getting out of the visit is a bus down to Passignano on a Tuesday and a Saturday - ONE bus to be precise and it leaves at 8.50am and comes back at 11.30am so not much time to do anything!  Have got friends lined up to come and rescue me!   Having said that it gives me lots of time to take long walks - the countryside is magnificent!  I will also do some painting and read and try to polish up my italian!

Just having a couple of hours at home and then off to Citta Della Domenica for the evening!

Opera

A mad quick entry today so u all know I'm still around. Have lots of photos and news and a couploe of videos if I can get them loaded but am in internet point so not possible today.
 Have been to see our Italian accountant - lots to talk about - do we want the new villa as a 'prima casa' or not?  Means one of us has to become Italian resident.  Lots of tax issues to think about. 
There will be some pics of the site having been cleared on my next blog - really exciting.
Went to see Le Notte di Figaro last night at the Rocca in Castiglione - a wonderful setting - we sat on stepped seating within the illuminated castle walls and - we didnt enjoy it at all!!!  SO disappointing.  I loved the production at the Opera House in London and was so looking forward to it! 
The singing was very good and the muscians excellent but the accustics werent great so difficult to hear some of it. 
There was no scenery and, which made it worse, there was this huge white screen at the back of the stage when the castel walls would have made a much more appropriate back drop.  The main characters were in beautiful costumes but they had two narrators in ordinary modern dress!  The characters also wove in and out of the orchestra which was a bit confusing and we didnt figure out who Figaro was for quite a while!Add to this being bombed by loads of knats and a few mosquitoes and it being an unusually nippy night, the experience was not too great and we all came away - like lots of others - at half time and went to have a hot chocolate in a local bar! 
Tomorrow is our wedding anniversary and so looking forward to a lovely day without work!  Tomorrow evening we are going to Citta della Domenica for a pizza with Ilana.  Not been for about  15 years si that will be an experience.  Weather fantastic again.  33C today and outlook the same for the next few days.  Havent time to checjk this so please excuse any errors!